ELEPHANT TALES





 Yesterday saw the departure of the two Ducati Elefants and the return of the SWM Jumbo for it's
remedial treatment. The Jumbo owner wanted new fork boots, the decompressor unit refitted and a
few other minor items. The minor items were the double seals on the kickstart/shifter shaft and a
replacement kickstart spring.



Welcome back

 The new parts were duly ordered and arrived after it's departure back in December 2009. On the day
of departure it had "marked it's spot", a bit like a Harley, and I removed the bash plate to check the
drain plug....... quick tighten and "CLACK" a nasty mechanical noise from the bowels and now the
kicker won't return all the way. So either the spring has come off its peg or out of it's hole and by the
feel of it the drain plug for the motor runs very close to it.
 
 Trying to find an engine diagrams for this Rotax engine is just about impossible so I'll be contacting
the UK Experts tomorrow to try and fill some of my gaps of knowledge! From what I have managed to
read so far I get the impression that this spring lurks in the bowels of the motor and requires splitting
the cases....... I hope not as that will require more specialist tools to get the flywheel off and get
inside.

 The forks were never brilliant so they need a flush and another blow through to get an improved
action. This may well be the easier of the projected tasks!
 


Those nice Betor forks!


 What WE have learnt so far! The kicker spring thing is a common problem as most SWM owner's
(me included) don't have a workshop manual and as the (drain) bolt looks like the obvious most
owners remove this NEVER touch bolt!

 

Which one would you remove ? 

 Seems I fell foul of this gotcha too! Now assuming the engine construction is the same then its off
with the clutch case remove the offending bolt, then with the clutch removed and kicker back on swing
the shaft 360 clockwise to retention the spring and slowly put the securing bolt back in. Well thats the
theory so hope "springs" eternal otherwise the whole f******** bike has to come to pieces as the
engine itself is the rear mounting point for the swinging arm and back end.



The whole back end is connected to the motor

 Up front the rare 38mm Betors give me concern as with the oil removed they are still as stiff as a
brick and the springs protrude a good 3" out of the tubes requiring a great deal of strength to replace
the crown nut. I get the impression they are about 2" too long and may well have been replaced by
"Shadetree" in an earlier life. I'll take the complete front end off and see if there is any "binding" when
its off load or whether the upper tubes are slightly bent? The spring length remains a mystery!

 There are indeed some slight bends in the upper tubes, evidenced by rolling on the pool table
surface. Not sure that this would cause the problem, and it would appear one leg has been
incorrectly rebuilt and is missing a part. The internals are fairly rusty which is causing some
snagging so without any reference info I'm still in the dark as to correct spring length and diameter.



Not nice, but I've seen worse

 Some months ago there was an advert on Craig's List for some Jumbo Betors for sale and although
I can find the ad via Google there is no tel no or method of contact to see if they are still available. All
very frustrating!! Well eventually the phone number is found, but the item is sold! however he did put
me onto another source which I'm waiting on. Bugger! that's sold as well, so I'm now left waiting on
the UK expert to see if he either has these forks or the parts for them. No answer here to emails
and his cell phone is switched off.



So near and yet so far, the required Betors....... but sold!

 Meanwhile, I will give them an intensive clean, remove all the rust and compare the feel and action
with another pair of Yam forks and see if there is much difference. In the worst case scenario I could
always align the bent tubes in the same direction and then at least they will be working in harmony
instead of opposition.

 Nothing for it, a complete dismantle of the legs and see what can be found while I'm waiting for
Martin to switch his phone on or reply to the emails. I thought one leg was missing some parts, but
NO, Shade had used his mechanical prowess and shoved them in arse backwards!! Amazing how
you can rebuild two legs and have them completely different, as well as gummed up with mud, crud
and rust. However they are slightly bent but I don't think that will be a major issue.



Shade has one leg correct, but reversed parts 3, 20 and 21 in the other!


 Using a little logic I will reassemble the "clean equipment " keep the bends on the Elephant tusks
in the same direction, and see if the action is anything like a trials fork from Mister Betor should be.
Regardless of bends and things, without the mud, crud and rust the oil should be able to circulate
and just maybe the springs will set correctly



The "before & after" of the internals....... yikes!!

 So time to rebuild and see if the action is any smoother and if they actually go up and down this
time. Closer inspection of the springs shows they were binding on the tubes, but this time the leg
goes together nicely, the spring seats, crown goes on without needing extra arms and the whole
assembly seems to function. Just oil to add for taste and we will see. 220cc's of the finest fork
lubricant added, fit the brake cable and off the stand for the fingers crossed test.

 Test completed, nice hissing noise from the now working air caps, a smooth trials like action with
good  smooth compression and rebound. Shade 0, TD 1.  Now onto my "goof" with the kickstart
spring and the shaft oil seals which needed replacing anyway.

 The protector plate and it's associated bolts are severely bent but eventually they come off, the oil is
drained and all allen bolts removed. Quite nasty in here! and at last I can see the "clutch Ice fishing
mechanism" ...... next up remove the clutch and see what happens next. Q, can I hold this with a
flywheel holder or do I need a specific clutch holder?



This crude appendage is supposed to protect the case from the kicker!




The inside of the "ice fishing" case


  Off with the pressure plate and the springs and flatten the tab washer..... hummmm! the plates go on
from the other side and the master locking ring means you have to get the inner basket held to remove
the clutch center nut. Of course all my clutch holders are Yamaha so as much use as a Chocolate
teapot here! Work comes to a complete stop as I need a universal holder, and Martin still has his
phone switched off.

 So now it is a waiting game, I need a clutch holder, a new kicker stop assembly, the decompressor
cable, some fibre oil washers, a SWM chain tensioner pad, and while we are waiting I might persuade
Richard he REALLY needs my spare pair of Gold alloy rims fitted on the Jumbo to match the color
scheme. Looks like I'll be waiting a couple of weeks to finish this project.


TONY DOWN